oceanography 3

low tide

a wind wave of 30m wavelength will be considered a deepwater wave if it's passing is greater than what depth?

The abrupt bulge of water driven a shore by what type of storm is called storm surge?

Describe how water moves in orbital waves

A wave of water moving up a river, initiated by tidal action and normal resonances within a river estuary, is called

flood current

what do we call the trough of tides

how does the shape of basin impact the timing tides for wide?

The vertical distance between a wave crest and the adjacent trough is the wavelength.

What type of current occurs during a high tide?

how does the shapre of basin impact the timing for narrow?

There are areas in the ocean where the tidal range increase with increasing distance from what points?

why is it that waves observed breaking on the shoreline appear as parallel to the shoreline?

pendulum - like rocking of water in an enclosed area

0 point reference or mean sea level

how do you arrange wave types in order from smallest to logest wavelength?

number of wave crests passing through a single point per second

In Southern California, how is the mean sea level determined?

In a region with diurnal tides, if a high tide occurs at midnight (12 AM), the next high tide will occur at .

slowing and bending waves

long wave length, shallow water wave caused by rapid displacement of water

Wind waves are examples of orbital waves in which:

What is an ebb current?

Spring tides occur when

The central point, or node, for a tide in an ocean basin where little change in vertical height is measuredknown as the:

less than 1/20 wave length

what type of tidal pattern is exhibited off the west coast of africa?

the vetical distance between a sucessive wave crest and wave trough is best described as

The time it takes for a wave to move a distance of one wavelength is known as

different mixtures of fresh water and salt water

the crest of the wave causing tides

What, in December of 2004, was one of the worlds worst natural disasters on record, killing nearly 300,000 people in all

_____ waves occur in the ocean at the base of the pycnocline, especially at the bottom edge of a steep thermocline.

what are 2 largest forces generating earth's tides?

a wave that sloshes back and forth from one end of basin to another

What is the relationship between the heights of tides and the amphidromic point?

Monday Low -0.2 ft 12:00 am; Monday High 6.8 ft 6:12 am; Monday Low 1.2 ft 12:25 pm; Monday High4.2 ft 6:50 pm

The east coast of US receives 2 high tides and 2 low tides f roughlyo the same heights. What kind of this tidal pattern?

The two largest tide-generating forces on earth are

What is usually the highest point on a beach?

gravity waves formed by the transfer of wind energy into water

Tides can have a wavelength equal to one tenth of the Earth’s circumference.

which is larger, lunar or solar?

The slowing and bending of waves as they approach the shore from an angle is called wave reflection.

what is the ratio that waves will break in the ocean

Progressive waves and orbital waves involved movement of water particles until a depth of one quarter the wavelength.

The two types of waves that are always or almost always deep water waves are ____________ and _____________.

mature, regular waves sorted by dispersion

wind is the disturbing force for what type of wave?

Monday Low -0.2 ft 12:00 am; Monday High 6.8 ft 6:12 am; Monday Low -0.2 ft 12:25 pm; Monday High 6.8 ft 6:50 pm

When high or low tidal currents begin to change direction, it is called:

What type of reef is a ring-shaped island of coral with a lagoon at its center?

What is a factor that is instrumental in shaping an erosional coast?

Which of these lists is arranged in order from smallest wavelength to longest wavelength?

A Wave that is moving through water deeper than one-half of the wavelength are known as deep water waves.

what is a dangerous consequence of tsunamis that attracts people to explore further offshore?

What organism uses the tides, specifically high spring tides, to time their breeding behaviors?

propagation of a wave around an obstacle.

how does constructive inference affect waves

Global glaciation events does not create variations in local sea level changes.

how fast does the train move with respect to the individual waves in the train?

what is the wavelength of tides?

What is the name of relatively old coast?

what account for the movement of wind-driven surface current?

rogue waves are generated as a result of

what do we call the crest of tides?

where would you find mixed tides?

A strong wind that blows continuously inone direction for almost 3 days.

a layer in an ocean or other body of water in which water density increase rapidly

A wavelength is determined by the:

more than half wavelength

Neap tides are result of

What is the tidal datum in reference to in regions with mixed tides?

what is the restoring force for each tpe of waves?

The wave you surf may have come from the middle of the Pacific. What has been transmitted across the ocean basin?

A wind wave of 20-meter wavelength will act as a _____ if it is passing through water MORE than 10 meters deep.

A wave that cannot “feel” the bottom is a ________________.

In a region with semidiurnal tides, if a high tide occurs at midnight (12 AM), the next low tide will occur at

The moon has a greater effect on the Earth's tides than the sun because

Monday Low -.2 ft 8:15 am; Monday High 6.8 ft 8:40 pm; Tuesday Low -.3 ft 9:05am; Tuesday High 6.9 ft 9:30 pm

what type of tidal pattern represent by graph?

a dangerous consequence of Tsunamis is that trough of the wave occur subsequently attracts people to explore further of

where would slack water be found?

High tides are associated with the area between bulges.

a tiny wave, the first type of wave to form when the wind blows

how was the great wave of 112 ft abroad the US measured?

A tide with two unequal high water marks each tidal cycle is called

what is relationship between the wavelength and it's velocity?

The factors necessary to make a really large wind wave are _____________, ___________, and ___________.

how much longer is the lunar day compared solar day?

how is a tsunami generated?

How often do neap tides and what moon cycle?

High energy coasts tend to be

horizontal distance between crests

group of swells with the same origin

True amphidromic systems do not develop in narrow basins because there is no space for rotation.

high tide

Modern tsunami warning systems depend on:

The tidal cycle is 24 hrs 50 minutes long because the moon rises 50 minutes later each day.

What type of tidal pattern is exhibited in Southern California?